Underneath the underwear patriotism

Originally appeared on The Morning

By Dhananath Fernando

• Can Sri Lanka become self-sufficient in undergarments?

My father had a very hard time with me when he accompanied me for haircuts when I was a kid. I’d ask him “Who cuts the hair of the barber?”. He’d say “It has to be another barber!”. Then I’d argue back saying “If the barber can give haircuts to everybody, why can’t he cut his own hair?”. Then my argument continued. Do the doctors go to doctors when they are sick or do they check themselves by their own stethoscope and decide their own medication? The same goes for surgeons. When a surgeon has to go through surgery can they do it on their own or do they have to go for another surgeon? When I look back, though I am not very proud of my arguments as a kid, the recent comments on the economics of undergarments on “Why Sri Lanka cannot produce all undergarments we require locally?” took me back to my childhood. 

A big social media discussion driven by political rhetoric, with little to no understanding of basic economics, was popular last week. Some argued that Sri Lankans will not have enough undergarments with the new direction by the Central Bank of Sri Lanka (CBSL) for licensed commercial banks (LCBs). The direction was to deposit 100% of the invoice value to open a letter of credit and halting credit facilities for LC’s for 623 HS codes including men and women undergarments. 

The opposite argument was there are enough local undergarment brands in Sri Lanka and anyone can buy it from Pamunuwa. There were some arguments going to the extent that “Sathosa” can provide undergarments in case of any shortages. Many argued that if Sri Lanka can export and stitch for world-class brands such as Victoria’s Secret, VS PINK, GAP Body, and Calvin Klein, how come we can’t produce to meet local demand? 

The argument went to the extent of some proponents mentioning that we have to ban everything we can produce in Sri Lanka to solve our foreign exchange crisis. 

First, let’s understand the reason behind the circular direction by the CBSL. A cluster of 623 HS codes are now required to deposit 100% of the value upfront. Additionally LCBs are not permitted to provide credit facilities, to open LC’s for the purposes of importing the mentioned 623 HS code line items. So simply it is not a tariff barrier, but the real objective is to discourage imports, in order to minimise the demand for foreign exchange used for imports, given the forex shortage we have presently. When the supply is suppressed, in this case on undergarments which is an essential product category the prices will automatically go up. That higher prices may impact consumer behaviour. 

Secondly, the question is why can’t we produce undergarments for Sri Lankans if we produce for Victoria’s Secret? Obviously, we can produce but economically or business-wise it doesn’t make any sense for the producer to produce a low-value, low-priced product for a 22 million market. Especially when the existing competency is at producing a world-class high-value, high-priced product for a market of a few billion people. In terms of margin as well as volume, the obvious pick is to produce for a bigger market. If we ask our manufacturers to produce for the local market as well, most likely they will have to shut down most of their factories, and obviously, Sri Lanka’s export numbers will drop drastically. When the capacity is there to produce high-value goods with significant value additions, why should a business consider producing a low-value product for a smaller volume. So pondering whether we can produce undergarments to our own markets by restricting imports, is the same as my childhood argument of asking the surgeon to get his own surgery done. So producing undergarments for the local market just because we produce for Victoria’s Secrets doesn’t have any rationale. On the other hand, if the current garment manufacturing plants are pushed to produce for the local market, the resources such as labour, land and capital have to be taken from the same resource pool. This can make exports expensive and make Sri Lankan exports uncompetitive. 

At the same time, export garments are stitched under branding regulations and contractual standards with strict customer audits where even a rejected garment is not allowed to be released to the local market. The companies have signed intellectual property agreements on individual designs and premium quality raw material is imported from Hong Kong, China and different parts of the world to make the product of superior quality. 

The same argument is there for tea. Often people complain that though Sri Lanka produces Ceylon tea, the tea available at the retail market is not as good as export quality. Obviously, just like the high value branded undergarments, there are high quality teas in Sri Lanka which many can’t afford given our purchasing power. As a result we have to settle for something affordable and the market is offering a product which is affordable for an average Sri Lankan consumer. Obviously a country of nearly a per capita $ 4000 income cannot afford to drink expensive silver tea three times a day. It is same for undergarments that markets offer a range of products where anyone can pick based on their affordability and personal preference. Those who could afford Victoria’s Secret and Tommy Hilfiger can go for it and those who can’t have the freedom to select from a range of undergarment brands and even unbranded categories based on their affordability. What is important is to make sure the choice is available so people can pick what fits them the best. 

Especially in a category like undergarments, it is the last thing that people will check – whether it is imported or locally manufactured. Perfect fit for the body, hygiene factors, sanitation factors, comfortability, affordability and even emotional attachment for the brand are very prominent in the product category at point of purchase. So it is essential that Sri Lankans have the freedom of choice to select what undergarments they feel comfortable with. Some people obviously may have a preference for local brands based on their criterion of selection. 

At the same time it doesn’t mean that local players shouldn’t produce garments for the local market. In a level playing field some businesses can produce for the local market and importing also needs to be allowed for their production as well. 

With the deepening of the US dollar shortage there are economic misperceptions built around imports. Banning imports is deemed to be the only way to develop local industries. Obviously we all know by hating something; we cannot achieve anything and the only way to achieve it is by competing. It is understandable that we face a foreign exchange shortage but obviously trying to produce undergarments for the local market by cutting imports will worsen the situation rather than solving it. 

Thinking that we should produce all undergarments we require locally as we produce for Victoria’s Secret is the same as my childhood thought that the barber should get his own haircut done and the surgeon should do his own surgery.

The opinions expressed are the author’s own views. They may not necessarily reflect the views of the Advocata Institute or anyone affiliated with the institute.